Mantonico is a white grape of Calabria, grown mainly on the Ionian coast of the region. It makes both dry whites with citrus, herbs and good acidity and, traditionally, sweet wines from dried grapes with honey and dried apricot.
Mantonico, also called Mantonico Bianco, is one of the oldest grapes of Calabria. DNA studies have suggested that it is a parent of several southern Italian varieties, including Gaglioppo, which would make it an important part of the region's grape family tree. For a long time it was used mostly for sweet wines and in blends, but in recent years some producers have started to make dry varietal Mantonico, often with some ageing.
The climate is hot and dry, with sea breezes. The grape keeps a high natural acidity even when fully ripe, which is unusual for a southern white.
Dry Mantonico can be firm and austere when young and often improves with a few years in bottle. Sweet versions are amber, rich and concentrated, with dried fruit and honey balanced by fresh acidity.
Start with a dry varietal Mantonico from Calabria IGT. Production is small, so the choice is limited. Producers worth knowing include Librandi, L'Acino, Le Quattro Volte and Cantine Viola.
Mantonico is linked to the red Gaglioppo and shares Calabria with Magliocco and Greco. Like Fiano, it is a southern white that gains with age. Read our best Calabria wines, the Italian white wine guide, or browse the grape varieties index.