Durella is a white grape of Veneto, grown in the Lessini mountains between Verona and Vicenza. It has very high acidity and is used above all for Lessini Durello, a crisp sparkling wine, as well as for some still whites.
The name probably comes from dura, "hard", after the grape's thick, tough skin, or after its sharp, hard acidity. Durella is an old local variety. For a long time it was used for simple still wines, and its acidity was seen as a problem. Since the late 20th century producers have used that acidity to make sparkling wine, both by the tank (Charmat) method and by the traditional method with a second fermentation in the bottle.
Durella grows in the Monti Lessini, the hills and valleys north of the Soave and Gambellara areas, on the border between the provinces of Verona and Vicenza. The soils are mostly volcanic, of dark basalt, and the vineyards rise to several hundred metres.
The cool nights and volcanic soils keep the grapes fresh and give the wines a saline, mineral edge.
Charmat-method Durello is fresh and fruity, best young. Traditional-method wines spend longer on the lees, in some cases several years, and become more complex, with finer bubbles and notes of brioche and almond. Their high acidity lets them age well.
Start with a Lessini Durello traditional-method sparkling wine, then compare it with a fresher Charmat version. Producers worth knowing include Gianni Tessari, Fongaro, Ca' Rugate, Daniele Piccinin, Masari and Fattori. For a still, natural style, look at the wines of La Biancara (Angiolino Maule).
Durella grows near Garganega, the grape of Soave, and shares a fresh, sparkling style with Glera and Chardonnay. Read our Italian sparkling wine guide, the best Veneto wines, or browse the grape varieties index.