Nebbiolo, Valtellina and Barbera suit Milan's braised veal shanks, and Lugana suits osso buco in bianco; plus gremolata, risotto alla milanese and red vs white.
The best wine with osso buco is a savory northern Italian red such as Nebbiolo or Barbera, or a rich white like Lugana if the dish is made in bianco.
Osso buco is Milan's great braise: cross-cut veal shanks cooked slowly with wine, broth and vegetables until the meat falls off the bone. The marrow in the bone (osso buco means "bone with a hole") makes the sauce rich and silky. The best wines come from the same corner of Italy: Lombardy and neighboring Piedmont.
The top pick is a Nebbiolo: a Langhe Nebbiolo or Nebbiolo d'Alba for everyday, or a Barbaresco for a dinner party. For a true Milanese match, choose a Valtellina Superiore, Lombardy's own mountain Nebbiolo. The budget pick is Barbera d'Alba, juicy and fresh at about $20–35. If you make osso buco in bianco, without tomato, a rich Lugana is excellent.
The classic version is ossobuco alla milanese. The shanks are browned, then braised with dry white wine, broth, onion and other vegetables. Just before serving they get gremolata, a mix of chopped lemon zest, garlic and parsley that adds a fresh, sharp lift.
There are two main styles:
The traditional side dish is risotto alla milanese, the golden saffron risotto, which soaks up the sauce. Polenta and mashed potatoes are also common.
In the Valtellina, in northern Lombardy, Nebbiolo grows on steep terraces in the Alps, where it is called Chiavennasca. Valtellina Superiore DOCG is lighter and more fragrant than Barolo, with red cherry, roses, herbs and fresh acidity. It is the local wine for a Milanese dish. Expect about $30–50.
Try: Valtellina Superiore Sassella Nino Negri, Valtellina Superiore Inferno Rainoldi or Valtellina Superiore Riserva Sassella 'Rocce Rosse' Ar.Pe.Pe.
Younger Nebbiolo from Piedmont gives the grape's classic aromas, cherry, roses and tar, at a lower price than Barolo. Look for Langhe Nebbiolo from the Langhe DOC or Nebbiolo d'Alba DOC, at about $25–45.
Try: Nebbiolo 'Perbacco' Vietti or Nebbiolo d'Alba 'Michet' Marchesi di Barolo.
Barbaresco DOCG is 100% Nebbiolo, usually a little more elegant and approachable than Barolo. A Barbaresco with a few years of age, with its softer tannins and savory notes, is a classic match for braised veal. Expect about $50–100.
Try: Barbaresco Castello di Neive or Barbaresco 'Martinenga' Marchesi di Gresy.
Barbera has high acidity, low tannin and juicy dark cherry fruit. It is especially good with the tomato version of osso buco, because its acidity matches the sauce. A Barbera d'Alba costs about $20–35.
Try: Barbera d'Alba Pio Cesare or Barbera d'Alba Massolino.
The hills of the Oltrepò Pavese, south of Milan, are one of Italy's main areas for Pinot Nero. The reds are light to medium-bodied, with red berries, earth and soft tannins. They suit osso buco in bianco and anyone who prefers a gentler red. Expect about $25–45; see the Oltrepò Pavese Pinot Nero DOC.
Try: Pinot Nero 'Noir' Tenuta Mazzolino or Pinot Nero 'Brumano' Ruiz de Cardenas.
Lugana DOC, from the southern shore of Lake Garda in Lombardy and Veneto, is a full, creamy white with citrus, almond and fresh acidity. It suits the lighter, lemony in bianco version and the saffron risotto served with it. Fuller bottles, such as single-vineyard or Riserva wines, are the best choice here. Expect about $20–35.
Try: Lugana 'Brolettino' Ca' dei Frati or Lugana Riserva 'Del Lupo' Ca' Lojera.
Both work, and the sauce decides. With tomato, red is the better match: Barbera or Nebbiolo has the acidity and structure for a rich, red sauce. Made in bianco, osso buco is lighter and more lemony, and a full white such as Lugana, or a light red such as Pinot Nero, works well.
When in doubt, choose a medium-bodied Nebbiolo. It suits both styles, as well as the saffron risotto on the side.
Veal sits between white and red meat, so it can go either way. Light preparations, such as veal scaloppine with lemon or vitello tonnato, usually call for white wine. Braised and roasted veal, like osso buco, usually suit a light-to-medium red. Avoid big, tannic reds, which overwhelm the delicate meat.
The classic Milanese recipe uses dry white wine, which keeps the sauce light. Many modern recipes use red wine instead, for a darker, heavier sauce. If you cook with red, serve a red with more body, such as Barbaresco or a Valtellina Superiore Riserva. Use a dry, unoaked wine for cooking, and never one you would not drink.
Is red or white wine better with osso buco?
Red is the usual choice, especially with a tomato sauce: Nebbiolo or Barbera are classic. A rich white like Lugana works very well with osso buco in bianco.
What is the best Italian wine with osso buco?
Nebbiolo, either Lombardy's Valtellina Superiore or Piedmont's Barbaresco and Langhe Nebbiolo. For a lower budget, Barbera d'Alba is excellent.
What is traditionally served with osso buco?
Risotto alla milanese, the saffron risotto, is the classic side dish. The shanks are topped with gremolata, a mix of lemon zest, garlic and parsley. Polenta is also common.
Does osso buco use red or white wine?
The traditional Milanese recipe uses dry white wine. Many modern recipes use red, which gives a darker, heavier sauce.
What is osso buco in bianco?
It is the older Milanese version, made without tomato. The sauce is lighter and more lemony, which makes it a good match for full whites and light reds.
Can I serve Barolo with osso buco?
Yes, if it has some age. Barolo with several years in bottle has softer tannins and savory flavors that suit braised veal well. A young Barolo can be too tannic.