Ortrugo is a white grape of Emilia-Romagna, grown almost only in the Colli Piacentini, the hills south of Piacenza at the western end of the region. It makes light, dry whites, most often lightly sparkling (frizzante), with green apple, citrus and a gentle bitter almond finish.
The name is often explained as coming from the local dialect for "other grape" (altruga), because it was long a secondary variety used next to Malvasia di Candia. For decades it went mainly into blends. In the second half of the 20th century local producers began to make it as a varietal wine, and today Ortrugo frizzante is the everyday white of Piacenza.
The vineyards sit in gentle hills with clay and limestone soils. The climate is continental, with hot summers and cold winters.
Ortrugo is made to be drunk young, within a year or two. The frizzante is the most typical style. Some producers also make a col fondo version, refermented in the bottle and left cloudy with its lees, which is drier and more rustic.
Start with an Ortrugo dei Colli Piacentini frizzante, the classic local style, which is easy to find in the area and usually inexpensive. Producers worth knowing include Torre Fornello, Marinferno, Bulli, Croci, Tenuta Borri and Luretta.
Ortrugo is a lighter partner to Malvasia di Candia, and shares the Piacenza hills with the reds of Barbera and Croatina, the grapes of Gutturnio DOC. Read our best Emilia-Romagna wines, the best Italian wines for aperitivo, or browse the grape varieties index.