What Is Croatina?
Croatina is a red grape of northern Italy, grown mainly in the Oltrepò Pavese in Lombardy and in the Colli Piacentini in Emilia-Romagna, where its wines are known locally as Bonarda. It gives deeply coloured, fruity reds with soft tannins, often made lightly sparkling, and it is a blending partner in many northern Italian reds.
The name Bonarda can be confusing: in the Oltrepò Pavese it refers to Croatina, while Bonarda Piemontese is a different grape, and the "Bonarda" of Argentina is yet another variety. Croatina has been grown in the hills south of the Po for centuries and is the main red grape of the Oltrepò.
Where Croatina Grows
- Oltrepò Pavese (Lombardy): the hills south of Pavia, Croatina's main home, where it makes Bonarda and is blended with Barbera.
- Colli Piacentini (Emilia-Romagna): blended with Barbera in Gutturnio.
- Veneto: Croatina is one of the minor grapes permitted in the Valpolicella blend.
- Northern Piedmont: a minor blending grape in some reds.
The vine is vigorous and productive, and ripens late. Its thick skins give plenty of colour, and its grapes keep fresh fruit even in warm years.
Croatina and Italian Denominations
- Bonarda dell'Oltrepò Pavese DOC: mostly Croatina, in still and lightly sparkling (frizzante) versions.
- Oltrepò Pavese DOC: red blends of Croatina and Barbera.
- Buttafuoco dell'Oltrepò Pavese DOC: a fuller, traditional blend from a small area of the Oltrepò.
- Gutturnio DOC: the Barbera–Croatina red of the Colli Piacentini.
- Provincia di Pavia IGT: a wider label for Croatina and blends.
- Valpolicella DOC and Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG: as a minor blending grape.
Flavor Profile and Tasting Notes
- Fruit: black cherry, blackberry, plum and violet.
- Other notes: a light bitterness, spice and earthy notes; in aged wines, dried fruit and leather.
- Structure: medium body, soft and rounded tannins, moderate acidity.
The classic Oltrepò Bonarda is frizzante: purple, foamy, fruity and dry, served cool. Still versions are fuller and smoother, and a few producers make long-aged, structured Croatina that can last for years.
Food Pairing
- Salumi: salame di Varzi, coppa piacentina and pancetta.
- Hearty dishes: cotechino, braised meats, bollito misto.
- Pasta: tortelli, anolini in broth, and pasta with meat sauce.
- Risotto: risotto with sausage or mushrooms.
- Cheese: Grana Padano and semi-aged cheeses.
How to Choose and Where to Start
For a first taste, choose a Bonarda dell'Oltrepò Pavese frizzante: inexpensive, fruity and perfect with salumi. For a more serious style, try a still Croatina or a Buttafuoco. Producers worth knowing include Francesco Quaquarini, Andrea Picchioni and Lino Maga, whose Barbacarlo is a cult Oltrepò red.
Croatina is often blended with Barbera and grows next to Uva Rara in the Oltrepò. Read our Lombardy wine guide or browse the grape varieties index.