Pigato

What Is Pigato?

Pigato is a white grape of Liguria, grown mainly in the Riviera di Ponente, the western coast between Genoa and the French border. It makes dry, savoury whites with peach, citrus, Mediterranean herbs and a salty, slightly bitter finish.

The name is usually explained by the dialect word pigau, "spotted", after the small brown freckles on the ripe grapes. DNA analysis has shown that Pigato is the same variety as Vermentino, and also as Favorita in Piedmont. In Liguria, however, Pigato and Vermentino are still kept apart in the vineyard, on the label and in the rules of the DOC. Growers say that Pigato, as they know it, gives fuller, more structured wines than local Vermentino. The difference may come from old local clones and from the places where it is grown.

Where Pigato Grows

  • Albenga and the Arroscia valley: the plain around Albenga, in the province of Savona, and the valleys behind it are the heart of Pigato. The soils are alluvial on the plain and stony on the hills.
  • Province of Imperia: the hills inland from the coast, including the upper Arroscia valley around Ranzo.
  • Rest of the Riviera di Ponente: small, often terraced vineyards close to the sea.

Very little Pigato is grown outside Liguria under that name.

Pigato and Italian Denominations

  • Riviera Ligure di Ponente DOC: the main appellation for Pigato. It includes a varietal Pigato and subzones such as Riviera dei Fiori and Albenga (Albenganese).
  • Terrazze dell'Imperiese IGT: used by some producers in the province of Imperia.

Flavor Profile and Tasting Notes

  • Fruit: yellow peach, apricot, lemon and ripe pear.
  • Other notes: rosemary, thyme, sage, pine resin, salt and a light almond bitterness.
  • Structure: medium to full body, moderate acidity, round texture and a long, savoury finish.

Most Pigato is best within two or three years. It is a little richer and more aromatic than most Ligurian Vermentino. Wines from older vines, or aged on the lees, can keep for several years.

Food Pairing

  • Pesto: trofie or trenette with Genoese pesto is the classic match.
  • Seafood: grilled fish, anchovies, octopus and fish soups.
  • Ligurian dishes: focaccia, farinata and torta pasqualina (vegetable pie).
  • Vegetables: stuffed vegetables, artichokes and herb dishes.
  • White meat: rabbit with olives and herbs.

How to Choose and Where to Start

Start with a Riviera Ligure di Ponente Pigato from the Albenga area. Producers worth knowing include BioVio, Laura Aschero, Poggio dei Gorleri, Tenuta Selvadolce, Rocche del Gatto, Maria Donata Bianchi and Du Nemu. Then compare it with a Ligurian Vermentino from the same producer.

Pigato is the Ligurian name for Vermentino, and the same grape is called Favorita in Piedmont. In Liguria it grows next to the red Rossese. Read our best Liguria wines, the best Vermentino wines, or browse the grape varieties index.