Wine Denomination from Sicily
Marsala is a fortified wine from the area around the town of Marsala, in the province of Trapani in western Sicily. Like Port, Sherry and Madeira, it has grape spirit added, which raises the alcohol to at least 17% and lets it age for years. Most Americans know it as a cooking wine for chicken Marsala and tiramisu, but the best bottles are serious, dry wines for sipping. Marsala became a DOC in 1969.
No. Despite its dark amber color, almost all Marsala is made from white grapes: mainly Grillo, Catarratto and Inzolia (also called Ansonica), with some Damaschino. The amber and brown tones come from long ageing in wood and, in some styles, from adding cooked grape must. A rare red style, Marsala Rubino, is made from red grapes such as Perricone, Nero d'Avola and Nerello Mascalese.
Every Marsala label tells you three things: sweetness, color and age.
Sweetness
- Secco (dry): less than 40 grams of sugar per liter.
- Semisecco (medium): 40–100 grams per liter.
- Dolce (sweet): more than 100 grams per liter.
Color
- Oro (gold): white grapes, no cooked must added.
- Ambra (amber): white grapes with a little mosto cotto (cooked grape must), which adds a darker color and caramel notes.
- Rubino (ruby): red grapes.
Age
- Fine: at least 1 year of ageing. The basic, everyday grade used mostly in the kitchen.
- Superiore: at least 2 years.
- Superiore Riserva: at least 4 years.
- Vergine or Soleras: at least 5 years. Always dry, with no cooked must or sweetening added.
- Vergine Stravecchio or Vergine Riserva: at least 10 years in wood.
Vergine is the purest style. It is often aged in a solera system, where younger wine tops up older casks over many years.
Most cooks need only two rules:
- Savory dishes such as chicken Marsala, veal Marsala, pork and mushroom sauces: use dry (Secco) Marsala. Sweet Marsala works too, but gives a sweeter, more caramel-tasting sauce.
- Desserts such as tiramisu, zabaione (zabaglione) and cakes: use sweet (Dolce) or semi-sweet Marsala.
An inexpensive Fine or Superiore is fine for cooking. Avoid bottles sold as "Marsala cooking wine" in the vinegar aisle: they usually contain added salt and preservatives, which can make a sauce taste harsh. A bottle labeled "Marsala DOC" from the wine aisle costs little more and tastes much better. For more recipes and serving ideas, see our Marsala wine guide.
The closest substitute is Madeira, which has a similar nutty, oxidized flavor. A medium-dry Sherry, such as Amontillado, also works in savory dishes, and a sweet Sherry or tawny Port can stand in for sweet Marsala in desserts. For an alcohol-free sauce, use chicken stock with a splash of grape juice and a little balsamic vinegar, though the flavor will be simpler.
Good dry Marsala tastes of dried apricot, toasted almonds, walnuts, honey and dried herbs, with a slightly salty finish. Older Vergine wines add notes of caramel, tobacco and leather. Sweet styles taste of raisins, dates, brown sugar and vanilla. All Marsala has a warm feel from its high alcohol, usually 17–20%.
Marsala was made famous by the English. In 1773 the Liverpool merchant John Woodhouse shipped local wine from Marsala to England, adding spirit so it would survive the journey. It became popular as a cheaper alternative to Port and Madeira, and Woodhouse built a winery in Marsala in 1796. Other English merchants followed, and in 1833 the Sicilian businessman Vincenzo Florio founded the house that still carries his name. In the 20th century, mass-produced sweet and flavored Marsala damaged the wine's image. Since the DOC rules of 1969, and stricter ones in 1984, quality producers have worked to restore it.
In the US, a bottle of Fine or Superiore Marsala for cooking costs about $10–20. Aged Superiore Riserva and Vergine bottles from good houses usually cost about $25–60, and very old Vergine wines cost more. Given the years of ageing, top Marsala is fair value next to similar Sherry or Madeira.
Because it is fortified and already aged in contact with air, Marsala lasts much longer than ordinary wine once opened. Close it tightly and keep it in a cool, dark place or the fridge. For drinking, it tastes best within about a month. For cooking, it usually stays usable for a few months. Dry Vergine styles keep best; if the wine smells flat or vinegary, replace it.
Serve dry Marsala lightly chilled, at about 12–14°C (54–57°F), as an aperitif with almonds, olives or aged cheese. Serve sweet Marsala at cool room temperature, about 14–16°C (57–61°F), with dessert. Use a small white-wine or dessert-wine glass and pour about 2–3 ounces (60–90 ml).
Dry Vergine and Superiore Secco go well with salty and savory food: aged Pecorino, Parmigiano Reggiano, cured meats, salted almonds and even rich soups. Sweet Marsala pairs with Sicilian cannoli, almond pastries, biscotti, dried-fruit tarts and blue cheese.
Marsala is pronounced mar-SAH-lah, with the stress on the middle syllable.
Marsala is the historic wine of Sicily. Read our Sicily wine guide for the island's reds and whites, see our Italian dessert wines guide for more sweet bottles, or browse every Marsala in our catalog below.