Müller-Thurgau is a white grape created in Germany in 1882, and in Italy it is grown mainly in the mountain vineyards of Alto Adige and Trentino. There, at high altitude, it makes fresh, aromatic whites with apple, peach, white flowers and a hint of nutmeg.
The grape was bred by the Swiss botanist Hermann Müller, from the canton of Thurgau, at the Geisenheim research institute in Germany. It was long thought to be a cross of Riesling and Silvaner, but DNA studies showed that the second parent is Madeleine Royale. It ripens early and is easy to grow, which made it Germany's most planted grape for decades. In Italy it is planted in cool, high sites, where it keeps fresh acidity and gives its best wines.
High altitude and big differences between day and night temperatures give aromatic, crisp wines.
Most Müller-Thurgau is meant to be drunk young, within two or three years. The best mountain wines, from old vines and very high vineyards, are more concentrated and can age a little longer.
Look for a Müller-Thurgau from the Valle Isarco or the Val di Cembra. Producers worth knowing include Tiefenbrunner, whose Feldmarschall von Fenner comes from one of the highest vineyards in Alto Adige, Abbazia di Novacella, Cantina Valle Isarco, Pacherhof, Castel Juval, Pojer e Sandri, La Vis, Alfio Nicolodi and Borgo dei Posseri.
Müller-Thurgau grows next to Kerner, Sylvaner, Riesling and Gewürztraminer in the Alpine valleys. Read our best Trentino-Alto Adige wines, or browse the grape varieties index.