Riesling

What Is Riesling?

Riesling is the great white grape of Germany and Alsace, and in Italy it makes small amounts of precise, aromatic mountain wines, above all in Alto Adige and Friuli Venezia Giulia. Italian Riesling is usually dry, with citrus, green apple, white flowers and a steely, mineral acidity.

In Italy the true Riesling is often labelled Riesling Renano (Rhine Riesling). It should not be confused with Riesling Italico, also called Welschriesling, a different and unrelated grape that is widely grown in the Oltrepò Pavese and Friuli for simpler wines. Labels that say only "Riesling" may refer to either, or a blend of the two, depending on the denomination.

Where Riesling Grows

• Alto Adige: the best Italian Riesling comes from the cool, high valleys of the Valle Isarco (Eisacktal), around the Abbey of Novacella, and the Val Venosta (Vinschgau), where vineyards reach 600–900 metres.
• Friuli Venezia Giulia: small plantings in the Collio and Isonzo for dry, aromatic whites.
• Trentino: in the hills and side valleys, for still and sparkling wines.
• Oltrepò Pavese (Lombardy): a large area for both Riesling Renano and Riesling Italico.
• Piedmont: a handful of Langhe producers make outstanding dry Riesling.

Riesling needs a long, cool growing season. Italy's Alpine valleys, with warm sunny days and cold nights, give it ripe fruit while keeping its high acidity.

Riesling and Italian Denominations

• Alto Adige/Südtirol DOC: the reference, often with the Valle Isarco or Val Venosta subzone on the label.
• Trentino DOC and Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT: Riesling from Trentino and the wider Dolomite area.
• Venezia Giulia IGT and Delle Venezie IGT: Friulian and northeastern Riesling.
• Oltrepò Pavese DOC and Provincia di Pavia IGT: Lombardy's Riesling.
• Langhe DOC: Piedmontese Riesling.

Flavor Profile and Tasting Notes

• Fruit: lime, lemon, green apple, white peach and apricot.
• Other notes: white flowers, wet stone, flint, and with age honey and the characteristic petrol note.
• Structure: light to medium body, high and vibrant acidity, usually dry.

Alto Adige Riesling is dry, intense and mineral, comparable to Austrian or Alsace Riesling. Most Italian Riesling is enjoyable young, but the best from the Valle Isarco and Val Venosta develop beautifully for ten years or more. A few producers also make late-harvest and sweet versions.

Food Pairing

• Fish and seafood: trout, smoked fish, shellfish and sushi.
• Spicy and aromatic dishes: Thai and Indian cuisine, especially with off-dry versions.
• Pork and speck: roast pork, speck and canederli dumplings.
• Vegetables: asparagus and dishes with herbs.
• Cheese: fresh and semi-aged mountain cheeses.

How to Choose and Where to Start

Start with an Alto Adige Riesling from the Valle Isarco, for example from Abbazia di Novacella or Pacherhof, or from a cooperative such as Tramin or St. Michael-Eppan. To find true Riesling, look for "Riesling" or "Riesling Renano" rather than "Riesling Italico". In Friuli, producers such as Jermann and Lis Neris make fine examples.

Riesling grows alongside Gewürztraminer and Pinot Bianco in Alto Adige. For an Italian native white with similar tension, try Carricante from Etna. Browse more in the grape varieties index and the Italian white wine guide.