Grecanico, or Grecanico Dorato, is a white grape of Sicily, grown mainly in the west of the island. It makes dry, fresh whites with citrus, green apple, almond and herbal notes, usually medium-bodied and good with food.
The name suggests a Greek origin, as with many southern Italian grapes, but there is no proof of this. DNA analysis has shown that Grecanico Dorato is the same variety as Garganega, the grape of Soave in the Veneto. How it reached Sicily is not known, but it has been grown there for a long time and the Sicilian wines have their own warmer, more Mediterranean character. It was once used mostly in blends and for bulk wine; today more producers bottle it on its own.
The grape ripens late and keeps good acidity in a hot climate, which is why growers value it.
Most Grecanico is made in steel and drunk young. Wines from cooler hill sites or aged on the lees are fuller and can keep for a few years.
Start with a varietal Grecanico from western Sicily, then try a blend from Etna or Vittoria. Producers worth knowing include Planeta, Tasca d'Almerita, COS (in the Ramì blend with Insolia), Frank Cornelissen, Girolamo Russo, Tenuta delle Terre Nere and Fedegraziani.
Grecanico is often blended with Catarratto, Grillo and Carricante. Read our best Sicily wines, the best Garganega wines, or browse the grape varieties index.